I'm in Ubud. I got up at 6 AM and ate my losmen's (boarding house) complimentary breakfast of rice, half an egg, coffee, and fruit. I started hiking northeast at 8 AM. I instantly became the town oddity. Everywhere you walk with a large pack men hound you asking, "Transport, transport?". I would entertain the idea of taking their ride. They'd name some outrageous price for a 25 mile trip (usually 100,00 Rupiah = $12). Then I'd tell them I'd give them 15,000 Rupiah (about $2). They laugh and shake there heads when I'd tell them I'd rather walk.

So, I started walking. Everyone thought I was hilarious. I walked right by ground zero, past all the police with machine guns, and headed towards Densepar. People would smile. Kids waved. Nobody carries a backpack and walks town to town.

When I arrived in Densepar after walking for 2 hours, a young man asked me where I was going. He was Indonesian, but spoke very good English with an Aussie accent. After a lot of haggling we decided he would take me by motorbike to the Densepar museum of Balinese art and then to Ubud for 20,000 Rhupiah. It was a thrilling ride. He flirted with Balinese girls the whole way. It was by far the most risk I've ever put myself in while traveling. But, I'm here now, near the monkey forest.

I will soon eat lunch. Roomstays with families are very cheap here--about $3 a night. Things just get cheaper and cheaper.

I looked into buying Doxycycline in Densepar. It was about $7 for weeks supply. I didn't buy it yet. It seems like too much. I have some mosquito bites., but so far I feel fine. Tons of expats live here for years and never take antimalarials. I may start later as I get closer and closer to the heart of darkness.

To my friends and family: thanks for reading. I love you all.